Boots

Are Your Motorcycle Boots Actually Protective? A Buyer's Checklist

Plenty of footwear looks like a motorcycle boot. Fewer are built like one. Feet and ankles are easy to injure in a low-speed tip-over as well as a crash, and the difference between a work boot and a riding boot is in details you can feel in your hands. Here is what to check before you buy.

Why riding boots are built differently

On a motorcycle, your feet do three things: they hold you up at stops, they work the shift lever and rear brake, and in a fall they are vulnerable to being crushed, twisted or ground against the road. Ankles are especially exposed in low-speed drops, when the bike lands on a foot or a foot gets trapped underneath.

A good riding boot is designed for those specific risks. It is stiff where your foot should not bend, flexible where it needs to shift, and closed so it stays on. Ordinary boots are designed for walking. That is a different job.

Five checks you can do with your hands

You do not need a lab to sort good boots from weak ones. In the store or when your delivery arrives, try these.

1. The twist test. Hold the toe in one hand and the heel in the other and try to wring the boot like a towel. A protective boot resists. If it twists easily, it will not do much to stop your foot twisting either.
2. The fold test. Try to fold the sole in half at the middle. A riding boot should have a stiff shank so it does not fold at the arch. Some flex at the ball of the foot is normal and helps walking.
3. The squeeze test. Squeeze the toe box and heel. You want firm cups that hold their shape rather than collapsing like a sneaker.
4. The ankle test. Feel the inside and outside of the ankle. Look for molded cups or padding over both ankle bones. Many boots only protect the outside; the inside matters too.
5. The closure test. Close the boot and try to open it by pulling and dragging. Zips should have a cover flap that locks with hook-and-loop. Laces should be covered or tucked so they cannot catch on pegs or open in a slide.

Features that matter, part by part

EN 13634, in general terms

In Europe, protective motorcycle footwear is tested to EN 13634. The label, usually inside the shaft or on the tongue, shows a short code. In general terms it describes:

• Height of the boot (whether it reaches above the ankle, or is a shorter shoe).
• Abrasion resistance of the upper.
• Impact cut resistance of the upper.
• Transverse rigidity, which is resistance to the boot being crushed side to side.

Each of the performance items is graded 1 or 2, with 2 being the higher level. Some boots carry extra markings, such as for water resistance. The exact format of the code and the test details have changed between versions of the standard, so use the label to compare boots, and read the manufacturer's explanation for the specific model.

In the US, no federal standard covers riding boots, so many boots sold there carry no certification. A certified boot gives you independent evidence; an uncertified one asks you to rely on the hand checks above.

Boot types and how protective each tends to be

What about steel-toe work boots?

Work boots are a common stopgap, and they are better than sneakers. But a steel toe is designed to stop something heavy landing on your toes, not for a crash. Most work boots lack ankle protection, twist easily at the sole, and often use laces that can catch. Some riders also worry that a rigid toe cap could injure toes in a severe crush. There is no simple consensus on that, but there is no strong reason to choose a work boot over a purpose-built riding boot if you have the option.

Fit and comfort checks

• Wear the socks you ride in when you try them on.
• Heel should not lift much when you walk. A little lift is normal in stiff boots.
• Toes should not jam the front when you stand on your toes or shift.
• Sit on a bike if you can and check you can get your toe under the shift lever.
• Check the boot fits under your riding pants or over them, whichever you prefer.
• Walk around. If you walk a lot at your destination, a slightly less rigid touring boot may be the better compromise.

Leather boots often need break-in; our guide to breaking in leather gear covers it. For wet climates, look at waterproof motorcycle boots, and for heat see warm-weather boots.

Make them last

Clean off road grime after wet rides, let boots dry naturally without direct high heat, and condition leather occasionally with a product made for footwear. Check sole bonding and zips at the start of each season. A broken zip or a split sole can turn a good boot into a liability.

Browse boot care and zip repair supplies on Amazon.

Bottom line

Boots are one of the easiest pieces of gear to judge yourself. Twist them, fold them, squeeze them and try to open them. A boot that resists all four is built for riding. A boot that doesn't is built for walking, however much it looks the part.

FAQ